I came here to find passion. Well, that wasn’t the only reason, but it was one of the many. And, certainly, the Italians have passion off to a fine art. Sometimes it can be confused (by me and others) as anger or over-excitement.
And here, particularly at the moment, politics are on everyone’s mind, given that the elections are due to be held in a couple of weeks. The choice seems to be Berlusconi and some other, equally old, equally corrupt, perhaps, less rich, politicians.
But there is a left and right and everyone seems to come down on one side or the other. And, with the exception of some people, everyone seems to get far more passionate about their politics and politicians than people in the UK.
However, what I didn’t realise, until this very morning, is that in this country, everything being about the ‘bella figura’ as much as anything else, perfume is also political.
S was explaining about how, when she was in France, she was browsing and trying (tasting in her words) some perfumes with a friend. Her friend said that she wanted some patchouli perfume. But to S this was a definite ‘NO’. She explained that, a number of years ago, this perfume was worn only by those who were leftist and, therefore, for her, the smell remains a leftist odour.
Well, we are in Italy. I wonder what Berlusconi wears?
If I don’t say it, someone else will…I’m guessing Berlusconi’s fragrance smells of something fishy…
Maybe it is a digression, but this *bella figura* everywhere (even in perfumes) is something that depresses me in this country. We are vainglorious, narcissist, it is oh so important to us what “appears†in the surface (even odours). For example, when the Polish Pope died and millions (10? 15?) of people literally invaded Rome in a snap, all the world was amazed seeing how the Romans perfectly handled this sudden invasion. No wonder. When it comes to “ fare bella figura†we are the first!!
Then I console myself thinking there is a link among “fare bella figuraâ€Â, our sunny climate (were showing off makes more sense in some way) and our tendency towards beautiful things, which is a Greek legacy, I believe. In fact, fare bella figura is much stronger in the South of Italy, full of Greeks colonies (pardon my historical obsession). You might have noticed for example (since I lurked you have been to Puglia…) how the women there are clad in any main street (in ways Roman women wouldn’t dare, though, oddly enough, southern women are less ‘open-minded’ than their Roman counterparts).
PS
One doubt. Did I add this second paragraph for “fare bella figura�
PPS
“South of Italy, full of Greeks colonies…”. I know I am talking about things happened 2700 years ago like it was yesterday, but this is me.
Hi Man of Roma,
I don’t think you should be depressed by this need to show your best side. Everyone does it, everywhere but it seems so much more here and it is one of the things that makes you who you are.
You’re right about Puglia (in that we’ve been there, so you really have read my blog, thanks) but, unfortunately, it was not long after we came here so everything was wonderful and new in our eyes – and it was winter – we didn’t see so much difference in what was worn.
I think the Greek legacy is so much stronger than we, in the UK, realise and one of my friends, from the South of Italy, often refers to it. I don’t know if that is the source of the ‘fare bella figura’ as, from an English perspective, the current Greeks don’t have this the way that the Italians do.
But I think it is fascinating. Underneath, you’re not so different from us but, on the surface it makes you seem more refined, richer, chic and beautiful – all in a classical way. I admire it.
There’s layers to Italians that I now know I have barely scrateched the surface of but I am learning, and loving it, every day.
And it’s interesting that you differentiate between the South and Rome. Italy is so not one country but has retained, to some degree, the old city state feeling in everything, not least the food culture.
And, I think, it makes you (the Italians) better for it.
Hi Andy,
I am not *too* depressed by all this showing but I perceive the negative side of it. Of course there are good sides too, as you say. As far as Greece, the ancient civilization in there has been swept away, so you don’t see all this beauty (although sometimes, here and there …). Italy of course has retained much more of this past, which is of Greek-Roman origin. So it is true that it is because of Rome if what was originally Greek (not only this tendency towards beauty) has been preserved.
But southern Italy has also direct Greek influence not mediated by Rome since parts of it were absolutely Greek, like Naples (ÃŽÂÃŽÂα ΠÌλιÂ), towns in Puglia, Calabria, Sicily. At the times of my grandfather one could still find people speaking Greek dialects in the South. One can perceive in many ways this Hellenic beauty, much sweeter and different from more … austere Roman beauty, hard to say, but Goethe explains it very well in his Voyage to Italy.
So yes, there is a difference between Rome and the South, in culture and also economically, I would say (which people in Milan tend not to admit lol). Rome is not as rich as Milan but is damn close. While when you cross the border between Latium and Campania, this difference in wealth is really palpable, I am sorry to say.
This state of disrepair and isolation has though preserved something that surely in Milan (and to a certain extent in Rome) we have lost.
PS
Thanks for the nice words about Italy. I am not always sweet with the Britons in my blog for a number of reasons, but I want you to know that deep inside I really love them.
I have a lot to learn about the differences between the peoples of this one nation, that is true. But I can agree about the economical difference between here (in Milan) and Rome and the area further south. And, ye, it does help to retain some of the ‘old ways’ better than in either of the great cities. Now, whether that is a good thing, I suppose, depends upon your point of view (and, probably where you live and your own economic status – since many from the South moved further North).
I didn’t know I was so nice about Italy all the time. Perhaps you missed those posts :-). But I suppose that I did move here because it was Italy, so I am a little biased in her favour.